Targeting 1400

If you're a beginner, you should play 1.e4. Though a better idea is 1.d4 if you're positional(wants to slowly destroy opponents) and 1.e4 if you're aggressive(wants to mate you immediately).

(Though I play 1.d4 even though I'm agressive just to avoid some lines since most 1.d4 games in my level turn "open" anyway.

I`m following a Youtuber named John Bartholomews` recommendation to familiarize yourself with 1.e4 e5 openings before you branch out to try other openings. 
The reason is that e4 openings lead to quicker development, quicker castling, and typically more tactical games, which is important practice. I think all beginners (including myself) should play the Giuoco Piano/ Italian Game or the Ruy Lopez pretty much exclusively, until you can achieve consistently good middle-game positions from these openings. 

It is of course up the player himself/herself. I`ve tried d4 and the London System as it was recommended to beginners as a solid setup requiring little memorization. But it just didn`t groove with me. The games become dull in my opinion. I think it is far better to get into a bunch of sharp positions to train your tactical vision and calculation.

As for rapid. What you should try to do while your opponent is thinking, is to think of possible moves he might play and how you should reply. That is the benefit of rapid. In blitz the moves are just churned out too quickly for anything but surface level calculation to take place, especially if you haven`t had time to practice calculation in the first place. 

There is a video on how evaluate positions and candidate moves by a FIDE 1910-player shooting for GM, which I think is very instructive. I will try to implement these calculation schemas into my own games. 
This video was posted by a guy who started playing chess at 24. Now he is 26 and quit his job to focus on chess and chess instruction full time. He is shooting for GM even though he started late, so this guy has some serious study and work ethic. His videos are defo worth checking out: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEsA1eB8RBI

I was just kind of rushing through your first game, and the first thing that seriously stood out to me was on move 21.

The reason is you ignored a key principle that I used to ignore, and greatly hindered me.

DON'T LET YOUR OPPONENT'S ROOKS GET TO THE SEVENTH RANK!

You should have blocked it with one of your own rooks. Also trapping in your bishop may not have been that smart.

You seem like u are doing fine. Maybe instead of 7...Nf6, you could have gone 7...Nge7 so nothing blocks the f-pawn. Also, a possibly better idea to a6 b5 would have been to maneuver your knight to e7, then g6, then f4. Your positional play is more than enough for 1400, what you need to focus on is tactics.

As you play more games and solve more tactics, your tactical detector will improve so play games and solve puzzles.

The placement of the Bishop on d4 was great along with e5 and c5 because you got your bishop out of the pawn chain where it can be active and the bishop may support a c4 c3 advance in the future.

Yes I suppose you're right. However, that still was not the right move in that position. That was an idea for later in the game when your position is a little more airtight.

I'm a beginner and I don't play 1.e4 e5 because Sicilian is WAY better. I have excellent results with the Sicilian(especially the Dragon) and play 1.d4 even though I'm agressive because I want to avoid Sicilian and Scandinavian. Also, in my level, 1.d4 openings also become "open" anyway.

Thanks all for the feedback!

Game #2, I play black, 15|10, win: 

While it's a fairly straightforward win, I found a few places where I was 50/50 as to what square to choose and whether to take a piece (and how) or protect one. Also my king was quite exposed few moves after castling, so stronger opponent might have taken advantage of that.

I'm honestly not sure how to analyze this game. It seems like your opponent messed up alot with bad ideas/meaningless sacrifices, and you played a very solid game. Well done.

Coaching for $15 per hour or 35 dollars for three hours,leave me a message if you are interested!

Nothing to complain about on this game. Good job!

Though your opponent could have given you a completely exposed king with 12.Ng5. 

Still, you were good.

The Giuoco Piano is an opening I`ve played quite a lot from both sides, and I`ve looked at some theory, so there are a few things you can think about next time you get into this opening. 

1. Typically exchanging your light square bishop for white`s light square bishop by playing Be6 benefits black, because even though you get doubled pawns if he captures, you are opening the f-file for your rook. Also your extra centre pawn is controlling f5 - a square white would REALLY like to get his knight into.

2. Another typical idea for black is to try to get the knight on c6 to f4 via e7-g6. That is another reason why exchanging off light square bishops is a good idea, as now your queen can develop to d7 without blocking your bishop.

It was a very well played game, and you capitalized on all your opponents mistakes  

Great. I'm on a similar path, I started playing in February and have played about 1500 games since. Started off at a low of 670 after my first week to now fluctuating around 1430-1460 with my sights set on 1500. Happy to play a few games together and share feedback on play. You can add me!

Thanks all.

@Giasira and @Nattreb I gather you prefer more offensive knights. Nd4 and Nf4. Got it  I'm also going to have a look at the "The Giuoco Piano" opening.

The Giuoco Piano opening, aka "The Quiet Game", can be a very brutal opening to your opponent once you've mastered it....without knowing it, I probably wouldn't be as high as I am. Recently my ELO has been bouncing around averaging from 1350 to 1400 and beyond, so if i can do it with this opening, you can do it too....good luck on your goal! 

Game #3, Black, 15|10, Draw:

This is a game I just played, so I'm still fresh, about it.

In short: New openings for me to play against and to play with. I think the major decision had to be made at move 20, where I had to defend either the Knight or my pawn at d4. In addition to losing material I think white gained a better Q position as well. Seems I chose poorly and sacrificing the K, might have been better. At the end of the game I was trying to mate him. However he wasn't having it so I had to force the draw. Also time wasn't on my side. (Throughout the game I was comfortable with time except on move 20, where I spent 7-8 minutes.)

Good luck for your goal

Your first thirteen were good opening moves with you better, but you made a mistake with 14...Rc8? you should have played Bxb2 however. I also would have been stuck on move 20 but because of the knight and pawn fork, not the pawn or king safety. However you managed to equalize. Congratulations!