wow, that was completely hard for me to understand the code.
How to play IQP positions?
I often play with an IQP because of my opening choice
1. the endgame, if the pawn is still on d4 (d5 for black), is better for the opponent, so try to finish the game before (or advance the pawn)
2. do not exchange pieces unless you have to. normally you exchange the knight on c3 (from whites perspective) because you get a pair of hanging pawns c3/d4 which is better than the isolated pawn. and you often give a piece to get rid of the defending knight on f6. The less pieces are on the board the better are the chances for your opponent.
3. you often start a strong kingside attack. your pieces can develop freely and there are some tactical motifs which often occur in IQP positions - it's good to know the tactical motifs.
4. push the pawn whenever possible/safe
5. you have to play dynamically since you're normally statically worse than your opponent (because of the pawn structure)
Learn to play the IQP positions from both sides of the board. A good way to master them is getting this book:
http://www.amazon.com/Winning-Pawn-Structures-Alexander-Baburin/dp/0713480092
Nimzowitsch gives a good explanation in his book my system. there's an entire chapter devoted to it.
Thanks IM Pfren!
No need to thank me. Actually, there are sevral newer works on the IQP, including a book by GM Emms on Everyman, which was announced 3 years ago, but it won't be published anytime soon (Everyman current estimation: December 2015).
Baburin's book (all of the contents are IQP stuff) is a classic, and it SHOULD be re-published. Why it is not? Well, serious books like that one do not sell very well.
isolated queen pawn positions I found funny when I was a bit worse in chess.
If I had the IQP I was constantly evaluating my position as worse because I could not allow certain endgames.
If my opponent had the IQP then I would feel like my postion was worse because I felt crowded and I was always worried about tactical shots by my opponents active peices.
Now I tend to prefer the have the isolated pawn since I like the space advantage and easy development. Most good players will play either side of the IQP
resign and start your next game with 1.e4 again
Books will give you better advice (and stronger players have already posted great stuff), but the general IQP principles that I was taught are:
(1) Control the square in front of the pawn - if you have the pawn, control of the square in front will allow you to push when needed. The reverse is also true - if your opponent has the IQP, you want to fix it and then eliminate.
(2) Trades tend to benefit the player who DOES NOT have the IQP. This is not universally true, but the fact remains - the fewer pieces on the board, the fewer pieces can be spared for the defense of an isolated pawn. Simplification might win the pawn outright, so be on the lookout for beneficial (or hurtful) simplification sequences.
(3) The player with the isolated pawn also tends to have easier control over the c and e files - another reason that simplification favors the one without the IQP (fewer heavies = less control).
(4) Sacrificing this pawn for active play or a small positional advantage is always something to be considered. It can take a lot of energy to win an IQP - energy that might be better spent elsewhere. If you sense your opponent diverting resources to a meaningless pawn, let it drop, and don't let yourself be too distracted by winning an IQP either - the more pawns that get sacrificed, the more open files to play with!
I recently switched to 1.d4 and consistently find myself trying to avoid an inevitable isolated queens pawn. I know this is not neccessarily bad but how should you play these positions?