Participating in first tournament...how will it go?

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ameraljic

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daxypoo
do you have otb experience? this can take some getting used to- i have played in 3 tournaments (8 games so far) and it is just beginning to get easier

what really helped is actually use all your clock and your bullet/blitz skills will help immensely in an endgame with both sides low on clock

as far as tournament conditions you need to sleep well and eat well and also get some exercise- while training before and during tournament

that is all i can offer- you are much higher rated so there might be more specific preparations - like opening prep- other players can help you with
ameraljic

Not that much OTB experience! Occasionally play OTB with family members and played OTB quite a bit in secondary school with my mate that is roughly my level but that's it. 

 

I will try to use all my time! And I figured doing lots of opening prep is good too so that I don't fall for cheap traps...thanks for the advice!

 

What's your otb rating?

BlackWarmaster

what makes otb so different?

superchessmachine
ameraljic wrote:

Been playing here casually and decided to join a FIDE-registered tournament in 2 months. 9 games, time control: 3 rapid games, less than 1h and 6 long games with 2h+ time control. 

 

Roughly 60 players in the tournament with average rating of 1750-1800 FIDE. 

 

I am unrated but have a stable 1850-1950 blitz rating on here, 1900-2000 bullet rating and started doing rapid games so my standard rating is 1650-1700 after 1 week of playing it intensely. I think I can add another 50-100 elo points to my rapid rating if I stop playing so fast because I often end up having twice as much time as my opponents by the end of the game. 

 

So my question is, will I most likely fail this tournament horribly with 0.5/9 points or do I have a shot at getting a decent score? Will I be able to get an official FIDE rating? Will I want to leave the tournament after two consecutive losses?

 

Will update this thread during the tournament!

What tournament?

blueemu

Agreed that you should NOT withdraw due to early losses.

When I played in my first important rated tournament (Canadian Junior Championship, back in1974) I scored one win, one draw and lost the other seven games. The win was in a late round... so I was still fighting for points despite losing the first several games. 

In your first few tournaments, you are mostly playing for experience. So play, play, play... there's no sense "getting experience" at withdrawing from tournaments. It's not a skill that will be useful to you later on.

daxypoo
i have a provisional uscf of 1085/5 (last three games havent been added)
daxypoo
the main difference is: might be harder to see lines (it was for me for sure) otb; having to manually write moves and hit clock; getting up from board and having to figure out opponent’s move without the nice chess.com online dashboard (material “score,” and auto move recorder)

also- might miss illegal moves otb and would have to be able to show, for example, 50-move rule or 3 time repitition

having to promote a pawn properly
etc...

blueemu
daxypoo wrote:
... without the nice chess.com online dashboard (material “score,” and auto move recorder)...

That chess.com material score counter represents a bad habit anyway. NEVER count the pieces that are sitting beside the board. You should count the material that is still ON the board instead.

What if some player on a different board borrows a captured piece, to fill out a Pawn promotion? If you are counting the material that's sitting beside the board, you'll get the wrong total!

ameraljic

Very good responses!

Yes I figured I will need to keep track of material, pawn promotions, time controls, illegal moves etc but these I believe won't be big problems. Or at least I hope.

 

Does anyone have an idea of how my performance should be? As the average rating is roughly 1800 FIDE and there will be 9 games?

 

I will also post my games on here probably!

OldPatzerMike
BlackWarmaster wrote:

what makes otb so different?

Besides having to move your pieces manually, you have to remember to hit your clock after your move and to record all the moves. This might sound simple, but when you are in the unfamiliar position of playing OTB under FIDE rules, while trying to play good chess against an experienced opponent, it's not so easy.

@ameraljic: I don't mean to overstate the difficulty of these mechanics. Between now and the tournament, mentally go through the sequence whenever you have a spare minute: move, clock, write down move. The more OTB chess you play, the more it will become automatic. Good luck!

nighteyes1234

Does an unrated player "win" a tourney?... Or only certain sections?

Can I just show up to an under 1800 section and come home with $$$?

 

 

 

aa-ron1235

unrated players can win a tournament, however, they usually get a fraction of the total prize fund. it is also very unlikely that you would win an under 1800 section, try for u 1600 if you want to be certain lol.

nighteyes1234
aa-ron1235 wrote:

unrated players can win a tournament, however, they usually get a fraction of the total prize fund. it is also very unlikely that you would win an under 1800 section, try for u 1600 if you want to be certain lol.

 

Ahh!...confounding 600 pts inflated blitz rating of chess.com! Silman says 400pts lower to USCF then another 200 to FIDE.

 

OldPatzerMike
DeirdreSkye wrote:
OldPatzerMike wrote:
BlackWarmaster wrote:

what makes otb so different?

Besides having to move your pieces manually, you have to remember to hit your clock after your move and to record all the moves. This might sound simple,

       It doesn't sound or seem simple at first but you quickly get used of it and it becomes as natural as breathing.

Agreed. Even in my first OTB tournament in 1970, I had no problem with this. Oddly enough, when I returned to tournament play last year after 25 years away, I frequently forgot to hit the clock. Not sure why that happened, but it has all become natural again.

Monie49

“How will it go?”

It's chess for blood!

aa-ron1235
nighteyes1234 wrote:
aa-ron1235 wrote:

unrated players can win a tournament, however, they usually get a fraction of the total prize fund. it is also very unlikely that you would win an under 1800 section, try for u 1600 if you want to be certain lol.

 

Ahh!...confounding 600 pts inflated blitz rating of chess.com! Silman says 400pts lower to USCF then another 200 to FIDE.

 

I am sure that this is some witty comeback somewhere, but i am having trouble understanding it. Can you please rephrase? Are you saying that I am not high rated enough to judge, or that you are better than what i am suggesting you are? Or something else entirely? Thank you! 

ThrillerFan
BlackWarmaster wrote:

what makes otb so different?

 

A LOT!

 

  • The 3-D board is a completely different view than the 2-D online, and the stupid 3-D settings on here are not the same thing.
  • Touch Move.  If you are used to playing online, you can click the d-pawn, drag it to d4, not let go or let go of it somewhere illegal, like drag it to the Black King just to make sure you don't drop it somewhere legal, and then proceed to move 1.Nf3.  You can't do that OTB.  If there is a LEGAL MOVE (stupid or not so stupid) with the piece you touch, you are OBLIGATED to move it now!
  • You mentioned FIDE.  Draw rules are different.  For example, if there is a LEGAL way to mate your opponent, as stupid as his moves may be, you win if his clock falls.  In USCF or Chess.com, not the case.  For example, K+Light-Squared Bishop for White versus K+Dark-Squared Bishop for Black and nothing else on the board instantly ends in a Draw in USCF as neither player has sufficient mating material and neither has a forced mate (IMM is still a win if you can demonstrate a FORCED mate).  If FIDE, toggle the King's and Bishops so that you have WBc8, WKf1, BBc7, BKh1.  Black is to move and his time runs out.  White wins because of the legal sequence 1...Bh2 2.Bb7 Mate!  Black would have to be a moron to do this, but that's the rules!
  • No pre-move
  • Fatigue factor

There are numerous other factors.  This is just a few of them!

nighteyes1234
aa-ron1235 wrote:

I am sure that this is some witty comeback somewhere, but i am having trouble understanding it. Can you please rephrase? Are you saying that I am not high rated enough to judge, or that you are better than what i am suggesting you are? Or something else entirely? Thank you! 

 

Something else....I was remarking on chess.com blitz rating vs FIDE rating. IM Silman, who has a following, supposedly said that chess.com blitz players were inflated by 400pts vs USCF. So then USCF is said to be 200 pts inflated higher than FIDE. So that would put me around 1100-1200 FIDE. Eeks.

 

 

 

ameraljic

FOr some reason I highly doubt a 1900 blitz player is 1300 fide.