Stuck in the 1950-2050 rating range

I've been stuck in the 2000's range (rapid) for some time now and i don't have a clear idea of what I need to get me to the next level (and no, I do not need a coach).  I feel like my openings are a little bit weak and my tactical sense has room for improvement but doing puzzles and reading books are an easy remedy, I'm wondering about how higher rated players formulate plans and other things like: how do you effectively maintain the pressure in a position?, and how do you create pressure in a position?, what are common weaknesses you see in 2000-2100 players? Any advice that you would be willing to give would be a huge help, I am trying to get to 2300 rapid within the next 6 months and this would really help save me and any other 2000 rated players hours of time.

Just keep attacking a weak pawn alot of times make the opponent defend it alot and then you create another weakness and since the opponent can’t put the defenses on both sides they will lose a pawn. A way you can make a pawn weakness which is either an isolated pawn or a backwards pawn, you can do a minority attack. A minority attack is when you(on the side not the center) have pawns that are less than the opponent’s, but then you push the pawn/s(could be 1 or 2 both are equally effective, but one pawn is for the side with a hook and 2 is for the side that has no hook) and try to attack a hook pawn, but on the side where your opponent has no hook pawns it, but if your opponent gets counter play then you should not focus on the minority attack.What to do against a weakpawn is one more story. You need to attack it as much as you can, but don’t autopilot or else you might get mated. If they unsuccessfully defend and they have no counter play it is mostly a free pawn, but if they defend then try to create another weakness. If you can’t within the first move of making a weakness try to set it up in some way. You could make a trade that ruins structure, stop backward pawns from pawn breaking by putting a piece on the square that it may pawn break, prevent them from making improvements by playing prophylactic moves, using tactical ideas to remove the defense of a pawn or just trading it off, attacking a pawn(weakness or not) and then switching sides that the opponent will have overextended their defense on one side and will push pawns leading to overextending of pawns on the other side and again minority attacks. Don’t rush to attack a pawn weakness, instead try to add only one attacker to that weakness and if not then you should try to improve your position so that more pieces can come to the attack and you do everything I mentioned above. Don’t ask how I know these.

Got too long for the application. Ok here we go again. Will have over extended the other side that makes more weaknesses, and of course minority attack. Don’t rush when you see a weakness. You need to add an attacker or 2, but not 3+ to make your opponent’s piece tied to the defense of the pawn and then improve your position so that you can attack it more. This will give initiative to your position leading to your pieces moving more freely and your opponent’s pieces won’t and this means that pawn weaknesses aren’t there to be captured, but to be a strategic advantage/long-term advantage. Don’t ask how I know. This was the fixed version of the part the got too long for the application. Actually I should start using these in my games.

They aren’t there to captured sometimes.

thanks a ton, I'll have to read up on pawn play in the middle-endgame. I have trouble with creating holes in the opponents position and then I get steamrolled when I play against higher rated opponents because they know how to exploit my non-confrontational play. I'll try to think about pawn structure and creating weaknesses when considering moves

In settings put on focus mode. It prevents you from seeing the elo of your opponent’s which removes the psychological part.

I forgot that you should also do moves that bait the opponent to do weakening pawn moves. In a position where the Knight can go to d5 and you go there, but the opponent has c6 and then when they play c6 the pawn on d6 is a backwards pawn.

Read:

Read my posts #4, 7-to-10 and especially post #12. Then play over the three sample games on pages 1 and 2, reading the notes.

GM Larry Evans' method of static analysis - Chess Forums - Chess.com

chomp on hanging pieces

my rating is 600

A 900 blitz player giving advice to an 1800. That's wild

Who? Me? Yeah it is wild, but not mild. Wait, does that make sense? You should refer to my rapid instead.

They are actually 1950-2050.

Strategic advantages/long-term advantages

Just keep attacking a weak pawn alot of times make the opponent defend it alot and then you create another weakness and since the opponent can’t put the defenses on both sides they will lose a pawn or be overpressured. A way you can make a pawn weakness which is either an isolated pawn or a backwards pawn, you can do a minority attack. A minority attack is when you(on the side not the center) have pawns that are less than the opponent’s on that side, but then you push the pawn/s(could be 1 or 2 both are equally effective, but one pawn is for the side with a hook and 2 is for the side that has no hook) and try to attack a hook pawn, but on the side where your opponent has no hook pawns minirity attacks can take alot of your time so sometimes something else is better, and if your opponent gets counter play then you should not focus on the minority attack. What to do against a weakpawn is one more story. You need to attack it only a little bit then prepare your pieces to attack it again and make them focus their defenses on one side, but don’t autopilot or else you might get mated. If they unsuccessfully defend and they have no counter play it is mostly a free pawn, but if they defend then try to create another weakness and attack that. If you can’t within the first move of making a weakness try to set it up in some way. You could make a trade that ruins structure, stop backward pawns from pawn breaking by putting a piece on the square that it may pawn break, prevent them from making improvements by playing prophylactic moves, using tactical ideas to remove the defense of a pawn or just trading it off, attacking a pawn(weakness or not) and then switching sides that the opponent will have will have over extended the other side that makes more weaknesses, of course minority attack and baiting weakening moves. Don’t rush when you see a weakness. You need to add an attacker or 2, but not 3+ to make your opponent’s piece tied to the defense of the pawn and then improve your position so that you can attack it more. This will give initiative to your position leading to your pieces moving more freely and your opponent’s pieces won’t and this means that pawn weaknesses aren’t there to be captured, but to be a strategic advantage/long-term advantage.

square that it may pawn break, prevent them from making improvements by playing prophylactic moves, using tactical ideas to remove the defense of a pawn or just trading it off, attacking a pawn(weakness or not) and then switching sides that the opponent will have will have over extended the other side that makes more weaknesses, of course minority attack and baiting weakening moves. Don’t rush when you see a weakness. You need to add an attacker or 2, but not 3+ to make your opponent’s piece tied to the defense of the pawn and then improve your position so that you can attack it more. This will give initiative to your position leading to your pieces moving more freely and your opponent’s pieces won’t and this means that pawn weaknesses aren’t there to be captured, but to be a strategic advantage/long-term advantage.

The fixed, less self contradicting, and more accurated text that got cut by the application.

#11. Sometimes my genius, is frightening.

I would estimate that 90%+ of my games are decided by 2 move tactics.

Dude your rapid is 1200

Poor baby