2Q1C wrote:
Oh wow. Thats awesome dude
Thanks dude.
I started making some (nice?) chess pieces.
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rcmacmillan wrote:
NadinTheChessExpert wrote:
I think I'm on the right path,what do you think Chess.com experts?
Looks good to me, Nadin!
Thanks Robert,I'm glad Chess.com expert likes it.
Nice work, Nadin. That is a beautiful bishop. Keep up the good work!
verylate wrote:
I'd like to see the complete set, but that is a good start. good luck!
I will post the full set as soon as I finish it,should I keep it plain and simple with normal dimensions or be a smart*** and threw in some important numbers?
cgrau wrote:
Very nice Nadin.
Thank you Chuck the Chess.com expert.
rcmacmillan wrote:
NadinTheChessExpert wrote:
verylate wrote:
I'd like to see the complete set, but that is a good start. good luck!
I will post the full set as soon as I finish it,should I keep it plain and simple with normal dimensions or be a smart*** and threw in some important numbers?
Plain and simple to start please. There is always time for smart**ery later. That bishop looks schweet.
That's what I thought too,what do you think about involving exotic woods in this project?
rcmacmillan wrote:
NadinTheChessExpert wrote:
That's what I thought too,what do you think about involving exotic woods in this project?
I have nothing against exotic woods, but there are reasons why they aren't used more often. Before you spend a lot of money on cocobolo, just as an example, you need to make sure it turns well and has an appropriate fineness of grain (it does -- just an example.) Just because a wood turns well does not mean that it is resistant to cracking, either. I have a beautiful bois de rose set that cracks every time I look at it.
I've heard that multiple times,I think you're right.One thing I'm not sure about is how to weigh the pieces?
I think I should stick to Maple,Boxwood,Ebony and Walnut.Where did you got bois de rose chess pieces,HOS?
rmanthony wrote:
Really nice. You are very talented.
Thank you Ray.
Jan 10, 2017
0
#13
I think RC is right, Nadin. Starting out, keep it as simple as possible. Master that, and then add complexity and difficulty. If that means boxwood, then work both sides in boxwood to begin with. Alan Dewey may have a video on his Chessspy website about weighting. But I think before you get there, you should work on blanks of each piece, to get each piece to where you want it. Then worry about the production questions. When we worked with Gregor on the Tal set, he generated all kinds of blanks of each piece as we worked to perfect the design. I think you should, too.
Hi NadinTheChessExpert, how is the Fibonacci series, the golden number, and pi designed in the piece? I am curious to find out!
The piece you made looks great! Some other pieces might be more difficult (I'm sure the knight is probably the most challenging) but it's something you can be proud of.
When done with all the normal pieces, how about something from a chess-variant?
This chancellor (from Capablanca chess) might be the grandest of all!
Your work looks excellent - thanks for sharing!
vickalan wrote:
Send me a design on paper with dimensions,I'll give my best. The bishop was first designed on paper inside of a golden rectangle,the length between first collar and a ball on top is 3.14~.When you draw a circle and raise it, you will get the height of the bishop.Also the head of the bishop is 1.44 cm,can you recognize the nuber? Every part of the bishop has a meaning,I will write much longer essay about it if you want
Hi NadinTheChessExpert, how is the Fibonacci series, the golden number, and pi designed in the piece? I am curious to find out!
The piece you made looks great! Some other pieces might be more difficult (I'm sure the knight is probably the most challenging) but it's something you can be proud of.
When done with all the normal pieces, how about something from a chess-variant?
This chancellor (from Capablanca chess) might be the grandest of all!
Your work looks excellent - thanks for sharing!
2Q1C wrote:
Maybe a dumb question but if you're doing it by hand on a manual lathe how do you ensure the other matching bishop is the exact same? I know in cnc lathes you can make up a program and save it so the other pieces are the exact same.
Primary technique is using various calipers,you basically need to have about four or five of them for different parts of the bishop.After you rough out the blank and transform it into somewhat early shape of the bishop,you can take the digital caliper and check the dimensions.Another crucial part are quality tools,I personally use Robert Sorby tools,I just feel that they provide the best sharpness.After all that is done you saw out the bishop miter and than you finish it up with fine files of various shapes.Carving nights is story for it self,it depends what kind of a night do you want to carve,the best carving tools are Pfeil(at least in my opinion),they use great steel for making them and they stay sharp for quite a long time.When I don't have the carving chisel that I need,I make them my self.For the finishing I use sand paper,specifically 3000# sandpaper that I order directly from the maker since it's rare in EU.I'm blacksmith too so I make files and rasps that I need, it's way easier than adapting my projects to other tools.In that way I can adapt tools to my projects.
2Q1C wrote:
NadinTheChessExpert wrote:
2Q1C wrote:
Maybe a dumb question but if you're doing it by hand on a manual lathe how do you ensure the other matching bishop is the exact same? I know in cnc lathes you can make up a program and save it so the other pieces are the exact same.
Primary technique is using various calipers,you basically need to have about four or five of them for different parts of the bishop.After you rough out the blank and transform it into somewhat early shape of the bishop,you can take the digital caliper and check the dimensions.Another crucial part are quality tools,I personally use Robert Sorby tools,I just feel that they provide the best sharpness.After all that is done you saw out the bishop miter and than you finish it up with fine files of various shapes.Carving nights is story for it self,it depends what kind of a night do you want to carve,the best carving tools Pfeil(in my opinion),they use great metal for making them and they stay sharp for long time.When I don't have the carving chisel that I need,I make it my self.I use sand paper for finishing,specifically 3000# sandpaper that I order directly from maker.Since I'm blacksmith too I also make files that I need by hand so it's way easier than adapting my projects to other tools.In that way I can adapt tools to my projects.
So what are your tolerances? I run a Mazak quick turn lexus cnc lathe at my work, but thanks to the Mazatrol controls, creating and editing programs is a doddle as it does most of the maths for you. I've never had any experience of a manual lathe but appreciate the skill that it takes to make parts with one. How long have you been doing this for?
I've been turning stuff on lathe and making stuff out of wood since I was 14.5,but before that I watched my grandfather do it.
Nice work my friend 
the new best chessman !
NadinTheChessExpert wrote:
The bishop was first designed on paper inside of a golden rectangle,the length between first collar and a ball on top is 3.14~.When you draw a circle and raise it, you will get the height of the bishop.Also the head of the bishop is 1.44 cm,can you recognize the number? Every part of the bishop has a meaning,I will write much longer essay about it if you want
I don't recognize 1.44. It's close to the square root of 2 (1.414) but not exact. So what is 1.44? If you made the head of the bishop √2 but you used 1.44 and not 1.414 then you need to start over and make a new one!
Hello Chess.com users,what do you think about my Staunton bishop that I made.I tried to copy 1849 model but at the end it looks like 1845 to me.I made it in American hard maple with hand tools and lathe.I think I'm on the right path,what do you think Chess.com experts?
Since I'm mathematician I threw in the design Fibonacci sequence,golden number and π(3.14 and another 100.000 figures since the last time I checked)
I will post some other pictures as I continue the project,I was also thinking to make a French Lardy chess set that GoodMikeNight sent me pictures of.Would it be a good idea to make this 1850 Staunton set with some exotic wood or Mammoth bone?
