What is the best response to scandinavian?

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chessterd5

#66, just finished chapter 5. that section is next. I think it's possible he played 9.Bd3 simply out of principle since blacks bishop is not on f5. yeah, c5 seemed a little early. after Na6, did Sf suggest 0-0 or 0-0-0 for black? I don't have a computer. I'm just curious.

WCPetrosian

In its top five lines it has White castling Queenside but more often Kingside, depending. Black castles Kingside in four of the lines but in one line Black doesn't castle. It doesn't have Black castling Queenside in this setup. Often in the Scandinavian Black castles Queenside or has a choice between Kingside or Queenside, but in this particular setup SF doesn't seem to approve Queenside castling for Black and it's rather obvious why --- Black's f7 pawn needs defending.

A reason why I play the Tarrasch Defense against the QG is because my King rarely if ever comes under attack. The same can't be said for the Scandinavian (I don't think a defense against 1 e4 exists in which Black's King is as safe as in the Tarrasch Defense) and I knew when I played ...0-0 he was likely going to play 0-0-0 (and yep, he did) to come after my King, but it didn't look all that avoidable to me so I thought ok game on. That he is an FM had me extra concerned for my King.

chessterd5

#68,thanks for looking into it. f7 does need defending. h6 or Be8 or both. if Nf6 jumps to d5, maybe the f pawn can just be pushed. IDK I'm just brain storming. if you would ever like to be friends or play a daily game, I would enjoy discussing ideas. I like the Tarrasch defense too but I try to play the QGA if allowed.

AggresivelyAverage

The Scandinavian isn't as bad as people say. Now, back in the day, before strong computer analysis, it was relegated to the garbage heap. But now we know it's playable and some good books have been written explaining the defense.

WCPetrosian

Thanks for the offer, but I tend to just play in tournaments, not one on one matches. Besides the games I enjoy trying to advance to the next round. One on one just doesn't interest me as much as including a tournament atmosphere does.

For instance, if a tournament section has 72 players, 6 players per section, and only 2 players advance to the next round from each section, I'm not only seeking to win games to get me into the top two but am actually willing to draw games too at times to help secure a top two spot. If I win the section, great, but I look at it long term. The ultimate goal is to win the LAST section in the tournament after advancing multiple times, if possible.

In some tournaments, if there are enough total players, it can take advancing 5 times or more to get to the championship, and it often becomes tougher after each advancement because they played well enough to advance also.

Some players say one must always play to win every game, but I take into account that I'm actually in a tournament that could get me eliminated if I take more chances than I need to. If I get into a situation in which I do need to push hard to win (such as I've lost a game or games), then I do, and of course that happens.

You may have noticed I don't have any blitz or rapid games here. That is because I take care of someone disabled and have been for many years. Online daily chess is my only option, so for me it is added fun to see not only how well I can play in games, and try to improve, but also see how far I can advance. If I make it to the last round of sections only then is the pressure really on to win the section because there are no more advancements and it is for all the marbles.

Sorry for the long winded post, but I don't like turning down such a friendly offer, so I wanted to try to explain how I approach my playing games. I have only played in tournaments here. Of course, what I wrote above is just in general, as my game showed there are times in which I don't have much of a choice. I found myself in an opposite sides castling situation against an FM coming for my King.

crazysal_chess

this gambit sucks

maafernan

Hi! I think that after 3...Qa5, 4. Bc4 followed by 5.d3 is a nice side-line.

Good luck!

AggresivelyAverage

I'm an average player. But I'll bet anyone that I could put my engine, playing the Scandinavian up against your engine of choice and I would win. Any takers?

Alchessblitz

1) e4 d5 2) exd5 Nf6 3) d4 3) c4 e6 or 3)...c6 these are dangerous gambits and I think it is better to avoid 3)...Bg4 it's the variant which can irritate and I don't know.

Kyobir

I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, KNIGHT F3 IS THE BEST RESPONSE TO THE SCANDINAVIAN.

AngryPuffer
Kyobir wrote:

I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, KNIGHT F3 IS THE BEST RESPONSE TO THE SCANDINAVIAN.

what do you even get here

chessterd5

#80, this is a form of the Tennyson Gambit. Black is in no real danger. unless he misplays the position. but that is true for all positions

reyaanshshah

I would suggest take and attack the queen with the knight and at high level not playing Tennyson or ICBM gambit

gik-tally

BDG is sooo much sounder! I have winning results with the gedult BDG. I just tried to correct my 3.d4 problem by studying the 1st half dozen plies of the portugese variation. I imagine I avoided it because it brings the queen out early to get chased and I hate trying to find refuge for my queen and to keep getting chased. the only thing WORSE is retreating back to her starting square. oh do I hate full retreats with a searing passion

DrSpudnik
1983B-Boy wrote:

BDG is sooo much sounder! I have winning results with the gedult BDG. I just tried to correct my 3.d4 problem by studying the 1st half dozen plies of the portugese variation. I imagine I avoided it because it brings the queen out early to get chased and I hate trying to find refuge for my queen and to keep getting chased. the only thing WORSE is retreating back to her starting square. oh do I hate full retreats with a searing passion

How does one get to the Blackmar-Diemer Gambit from 1. e4 d5? Even if you play 2.d4, you still need to think about the Caro-Kann (2....c6) or the French (2.....e6). Just playing 3. f3 doesn't look that appealing then.

maafernan

Hi!

I think you could play 2. d4, de 3 Nc3, Nf6 4 f3.

Or you could go 2 Nc3 and after 2...de, then play 3. f3 and you will get a similar setup. But in this case you have to be prepared to transpose to the van Geet opening. It could follow 2...d4, 3. Nce2, c5 4. Nf3 , Nc6 with the idea of 5. Bc4 of Bb5.

Good luck!

gik-tally

And then I try to play 6.Bc4 with eyes on castling and attacking f7 asap... kings gambit concepts. I do better winging it with the gedult than I did studying the main line.

Here's the miniature I played this morning...

I also like related alapin diemer French and ESPECIALLY mieses gambit carokanns. It's almost like the same system for 3 different defenses and kings gambit attacks f7 the same way too.
 
I've played this same exact game 3 times against the caro with possible Nf6 Bg4 transpositions... carokanns just aren't prepared for "diemer style Bxf7+" attacks!
Kyobir
reyaanshshah wrote:

I would suggest take and attack the queen with the knight and at high level not playing Tennyson or ICBM gambit

But ICBM Gambit = 2 Brilliant Moves

chessterd5

#86, B-Boy imo, black makes the same poor choice in all 3 positions. do not play exf3. with Nxf3, I think white gets way too much development for the pawn. Combined with black losing Time for both captures.

gik-tally

I don't want to play the scandinavian anymore myself. I want to rousseu & jaensish/schliemann if only I could figure out a way to conquer the move order nightmare I was unable to drill my way through much at all in 2 hours of constant wrong moves