A game I drew, could I have won it?

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LuckyDan74

I thought I played ok in this game, it was a 30 minute live game against a similar rated opponent.

The game fizzled out as a draw but I wonder if better players can tell me how I could have perhaps turned this into a win as I was definitely ahead in material going into the end game.

I am not very good at pawn only end games, often lack the vision to see things through in my favour, and

before I know it I've lost the game or as in this case, drawn it.
Perhaps I was too quick to reduce material off the board. I've included some notes within the game below and any help is greatly appreciated.

corum

Great game Dan. Your analysis is pretty good too.

However, I think you could have won it.

I think whilst I was doing this analysis someone else pointing out the same opportunity. 28. Kf1 missed a chance to win I think.

However, black played imperfectly and you finally reached this position after 31. Kc8.

 
 

But by the time you reach the following position it is a draw

Around move 33, as is your usual style, you were too worried about what blacks four pawns could do against your three. 

LuckyDan74

Thanks Steve. That clears a lot up. I can see why 28. Kf1 was a worse move to make than the simple 28. a5 which puts black under pressure. Your first diagram shows this clearly thanks, however I'm not so sure I could get either of those pawns home from there...

I had a look and saw if black plays ...Nd5 it then follows 29. a6 Nc7 30. a7 Na8 31. b6 Kc8 and then I guess I am back to worrying about 3 pawns v 4 and nudging those pawns and hoping for the best?

From your second diagram which was most useful, how did you know to play 32. f4? why not 32. h4 or 32. g5 or does it not really matter?

I had a mess around with what happens if black plays a pawn move at move 38 and yes, there is always a way for white to gain an advantage. Yes I see your point at move 39. Thanks for this Steve and glad to know it was a draw from your third diagram.

Kmatta
Nxd4 was fine, if e5, Bf5 was hanging
Kmatta
and usually you play ng3 instead of nc3, it gains a tempo on the Bishop
Rat1960

5. Ng3 not Nc3. It is easier to control the centre with c2-c4
I play the Caro-Kann as black. When I am white I want Rxe6 and a mate.
Standard is to exchange the white square bishop but well nothing like hitting e6.
9. Sure, so long as you are watching your c2 pawn.
11. we diverge, I like 11. Nd4-b5 Na6 12. 0-0-0

12. Bd3 ?
12. Nxe6 f7xNe6 13. BxBc5 Bxc2 14. Be6 Nd7 15. Ba3
12. Nxe6 BxBe3 13. Nc7+ If black goes e-file Re1, If black goes d-file NxR and Ra1-d1

Moves 13. to 21. same page.
Now if black wants to to play Nb4/f4 and swap the d-pawn for the b-pawn, in a heartbeat.
I would be well happy with two passed wing pawns.
As a general rule to neuter the bishop black wants lots of white centre squares for the knight.
I am torn between 22. a4 (charge, holding b-pawn) and 22. f3
I think the latter in case Bf2 is needed.

Moves 23. to 27. same page.
28. Kf1 I would have made the same mistake, missing ... Nb2/c4

corum's winning line is great.  I tried 34. ... h6 and ... h5 but that does not hold either.

how did you know to play 32. f4? stops e5 and then f6.

 

Pryder

 He could have played n(d4) -b5 instead of castling on move 11, which is awkward for you,sometimes you have to "waste" a move in these kind of positions, such as a6.

 

Just a tip if you play the ck like me happy.png

darkunorthodox88

a word of advice, when you reach endgame like that.

your king will need to help out anyway as the pawns alone wont queen. pawn moves are committal and can easily leave you with a glaring weakness down the line, so march the king in that direction first. black will need a herculian effort to established one passed pawn in such a vanilla 4 vs 3 pawn island, and your bishop can save the day last minute, so this was an easy win mostly. 2 pawns + bishop vs active king vs knight and king is easy win here.

actually this is a piece of advice masters often keep secret (sort of). when you have to pick between the different move orders to reach similar or identical positions, its usually better to pick the line that minimizes your commitments and maximizes your opponents (that is, gives him more room to make errors). In this position, moving your king, keeps your pawns in less risk and more structural flexibility, whereas black is allowed to trip up his defenses.

LuckyDan74

 Thanks Darren, some really good suggestions ... 

5. Ng3 not Nc3. It is easier to control the centre with c2-c4

- yes valid point, and of course comes with an attack on the bishop


11. we diverge, I like 11. Nd4-b5 Na6 12. 0-0-0

As does Pryder.... (thanks happy.png ) ....I suppose there was no real threat, perhaps in a rush to castle having been caught out in many games by not playing 0-0 earlier. Take the point, threatens the fork on c7 but easily met with Na6 which then could go to Nb4. I see that castling queen side brings my rook directly to an open file which is pleasant. 

12. Bd3 ?

I was worried that black may take my knight on d4 which defends the pawn on c2.


12. Nxe6 f7xNe6 13. BxBc5 Bxc2 14. Be6 (Bxe6) Nd7 15. Ba3 - ah yes, no wonder I suck at tactics... Nxe6 so easy when you see it!! sad.png
12. Nxe6 BxBe3 13. Nc7+ If black goes e-file Re1, If black goes d-file NxR and Ra1-d1 - very good, either way an immediate advantage out of the opening... the move Nxe6 never even occurred to me.

Now if black wants to to play Nb4/f4 and swap the d-pawn for the b-pawn, in a heartbeat.
I would be well happy with two passed wing pawns.
As a general rule to neuter the bishop black wants lots of white centre squares for the knight.
I am torn between 22. a4 (charge, holding b-pawn) and 22. f3
I think the latter in case Bf2 is needed.

Yes an interesting position at move 22 white to play. I understand why losing e3 but taking b6 is an advantage for me as you point out above. Perhaps I should have been more aggressive and played a4 rather than worried about the knight and a3. Black wasn't worried about a3 as he moves the knight  to f4 instead - as happened in the game. e6-e5 is a move I've just seen that looks good for black next and that looks hard to stop.


28. Kf1 I would have made the same mistake, missing ... Nb2/c4, nah don't believe you!

corum's winning line is great.  I tried 34. ... h6 and ... h5 but that does not hold either. - yes also grateful to Corum for his input on "how to win and end game with ease" happy.png found it interesting how black with a 4 v 3 advantage cannot cause white problems.

how did you know to play 32. f4? stops e5 and then f6. - ah yes, if I get stuck again I will look to restrict rather than just play a random pawn move and hope for the best.

Preggo_Basashi

That 28...Nb2-c4 maneuver was a bit unlucky.

Instead of the pawn endgame, which will require some accuracy, playing 30.Bd4 was easier (knight vs bishop where you have the bishop and an outside passer and they have pawns only on one side of the board).

 

And then yeah, bringing your king into the game with e.g. 26.Kf1

It may not be a flashy move, but just look at the position, your advantage is both big and permanent. In situations like that just ask yourself what are the ways you can lose (or draw), then don't do that. In this case you might draw by advancing the pawns too far down the board and it would be king and knight vs just your bishop defending. Turns out that was winning anyway, but as the game showed it required more accuracy. By bringing the king into the game you just win by sheer numbers. 

Pryder

I am not sure 11n(d4) -b5 is easily met with na6 ?

 

Your a pawn is probably takeable, and he has nd6+ as another threat, it looks very good for white to me ?!

LuckyDan74
darkunorthodox88 wrote:

a word of advice, when you reach endgame like that.

your king will need to help out anyway as the pawns alone wont queen. pawn moves are committal and can easily leave you with a glaring weakness down the line, so march the king in that direction first. black will need a herculian effort to established one passed pawn in such a vanilla 4 vs 3 pawn island, and your bishop can save the day last minute, so this was an easy win mostly. 2 pawns + bishop vs active king vs knight and king is easy win here.

actually this is a piece of advice masters often keep secret (sort of). when you have to pick between the different move orders to reach similar or identical positions, its usually better to pick the line that minimizes your commitments and maximizes your opponents (that is, gives him more room to make errors). In this position, moving your king, keeps your pawns in less risk and more structural flexibility, whereas black is allowed to trip up his defenses.

This thread has suddenly burst into life... great advice thanks. Yes I knew I had to get my king involved to help out the pawns but as you say, this should have been in my mind earlier and moving when I did turned out to be the wrong time to move the king! Hurts to hear this was an easy win but it's been extremely useful to see where I went wrong.

 

LuckyDan74
Pryder wrote:

I am not sure 11n(d4) -b5 is easily met with na6 ?

 

Your a pawn is probably takeable, and he has nd6+ as another threat, it looks very good for white to me ?!

Sorry Pam, meant to type "the fork on c7 is easily met by ...Na6" but I did like your suggestion as it gives black something to worry about rather than the passive 0-0 happy.png

Pryder

0-0 is ok, but this is the kind of position in which if white doesnt do something active, black will easily equalise

 

The endgame advice given here is good, but I find it the hardest part of the game by a long way sad.png

pfren

There are a ton of errors before that, but the king and pawn endgame is a trivial win due to the outside passed pawn.

The simplest method is 34.f4, which restrains Black's kingside pawn majority. Actually the only thing white should be careful not to do is being left with a rook's pawn- which is precisely what happened in the game!

 

Before that, the simple 25.a4 wins a knight for two pawns, and the game.

Rat1960

25. a4 Nxb2 26. a5 Nc4 27. Bc7 (make it hard for the knight) Na3 28. a6 Nb5 29. Bb8 h6 (say) 30. a7 Nxa7 31. Bxa7
#16 simple for you.  I missed it before your note.  Dan has yet to look at square control or other subtle things like knights don't like wing pawns, let alone when they helped by a bishop.

LuckyDan74

Thanks pfren and Darren, yes took a bit of working out myself along almost same lines as you describe above and can see how 25. a4 is a good move to play - with a clock ticking not so easy to find but hopefully will remember this type of situation in future.

Of course even after the position where I have 1 less pawn and a bishop it is by no means a trivial win happy.png

JLD_Da_Killa88
You probably should have not done 20.Rc8 check there, after the rook on a8 moved off that rank, then play Rc8 check,then it’s a few moves before mate but I think you could have done it.
LuckyDan74
Pryder wrote:

0-0 is ok, but this is the kind of position in which if white doesnt do something active, black will easily equalise

 

The endgame advice given here is good, but I find it the hardest part of the game by a long way

I agree, I've tried endgame books but always end up reading the same chapter over and over and after closing the book I remember nothing happy.png

Checkmatefun2018

 
#3  the second pic is what you probaly should have done, being more aggresive but nice game you have a very decent analysis