Teach me how to attack

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soitoe

Just got finished with a game. I felt pretty good about my position only to watch it fall apart. I played aggressively and my attack fizzled. I could use some advice on how to improve.

 

 
 
 
 
Seem to have trouble avoiding exchanges and coordinating my pieces. Any insights or criticism is appreciated.
mark11222

Exchanges are not always avoidable. The key in most positions is can I find a more advantageous position for this piece. As for attacks fizzling most do fail to mate the king so you have to watch for chances to go up materally or positionally so you can win in end game. I win most games by winning material or forcing an unfavorable ending rather than mating. Very difficult to get players that know what they doing by mating them in Morhpy style attacks. 

mark11222

The fired liver attack in your first game here is well known and easy for black to counter. You just throwing your pieces at your opponents without coordination or with your opponents having created any weaknesses. One rule to follow would be castle before move eight and only attack after move nine. 

mark11222

Attacks to be successful need follow on forces. Develop then attack and attack a weakness. 

soitoe
mark11222 wrote:

Attacks to be successful need follow on forces. Develop then attack and attack a weakness. 

Do you see any weaknesses in White's position in the third game? By move 19, my idea was to swap light square bishops and co-ordinate my queen and knights to the kingside. Don't know if there was anything better.

Sqod
Rainhaven wrote:

Do you see any weaknesses in White's position in the third game? By move 19, my idea was to swap light square bishops and co-ordinate my queen and knights to the kingside. Don't know if there was anything better.

In that 3rd game, you're playing excessively passive moves that left you with few attacking options, so your problems seem to be more fundamental than having attacking ideas. In e-pawn openings Black doesn't equalize until he plays ...d5, and you neglected to play ...d5 (you needlessly chose the passive ...d6 instead), therefore you never even equalized, therefore you never got much of a chance to attack.

6...d5 should have been played instead of 6...d6.

9...exd4 should have been played instead of 6...Bb6. Black nearly always trades pawns to make space in that type of situation where White finally advances one of his central pawns, in any opening. Fortunately for you, White overlooked the usual punishment for Black's neglected capture: 7. d5!

The idea of trading light-squared bishops is a good one, but you'd need to back up that LSB with your queen via ...Qd7 but you obstructed your queen at that square with 8...Nbd7. The reason you moved the knight there is because you mostly had to, because of your pawn at c6, which would normally have been gone if you'd played ...d5. One opening problem is causing another.

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(p. 47)
   The player with an inferior
development should never at-
tack.

Renaud, Georges, and Victor Kahn. 1953. The Art of Checkmate. New York: Dover Publications, Inc.

soitoe

I feel silly for missing 6...d5, my pieces would have indeed been less cramped. I felt it was necessary to reinforce the pawn on e5 as this would keep the center closed and allow me focus play on the wings. But of course, my rooks ended up stuck on the back rank, and my knights on the second and third ranks.