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sigh....
You keep dying in chess, but you also keep respawning. How do I defeat you once and for all so you won't ever come back? I am not as yet willing to drive a stake through the virtual chessboard on my monitor.
I think i am starting to figure this out. I'm don't know if the spelling is right, but i seem to be doing really good with the "EGMOND GAMBIT" here is a game i just used it on a guy with:
I think this might be a good way to start each game. I really like this way to start.
It's Englund Gambit.
But transposed to Old Indian so it wasn't Englund gambit afterall.
OP - "I keep dying in chess"
Sort of a chess version of "Groundhog Day"?
It's not "Groundhog's Day, it's "Happy Death Day".
I keep dying when i play chess! i know i there are somthings can get better at, but i keep dying no matter what. sometimes i do pretty good and the clock actually runs out, but that doesnt happen enough. i think I should get better with my pwns, (get them to the other guys back row faster) but they keep getting killed. here is an axample (i try to reorganize them):
. If there are any tips you can offer that would be good my goal is to be really good and stop looking at the game over screen!
The main problem most novices have is not trying to evaluate a position and, therefore, not working on improving their evaluations.
Chess is very simple: You have a position and try to reach a position you've evaluated as better than the current one. This isn't achieved by single and disconnected moves, but whole concepts of where your pieces should be to achieve your goal. At any rate, you need some form of basis for an evaluation, or you won't know if you need to defend, to prepare, to attack, etc., or if the position you're heading to is good, equal or worse than what you currently have. In other words, if you can't evaluate then you're wandering.
Now, the most important thing to evaluate is the piece activity. A fancy word for the direct, latent and potential threats on the board. Working on tactics training will improve your pattern recognition for several motifs (themes).
But there's a simple trick to detect where to pay attention for activity. Imagine your pieces have green laser lights and your opponents' have red ones. Those lasers can lit things x–rays like. Now, pay attention to the pieces marked by red and green. If there's a red light in one of yours, check if it has a green light as well (that is, if it's defended), and also if the trade wins material for anyone. Now repeat the process with the opponents' pieces. When finished, you'll be able to determine which are the direct threats on the board. Potential threats involve mentally moving the pieces a bit. Latent threats involve moving several pieces more than a bit.
You may wonder why the laser thing. Well, the moment you see a sector all lit in a color, the moment you know where to make play, or defend against.
Now, all this isn't enough to get an accurate evaluation of a present or future position, but is the first step as you shouldn't be hanging pieces nor missing opportunities once you're used to this method.
Finally, if the time control is too fast for you to use this method, play slower controls. Build precision first, speed later.
Just my 2 cents.
But if he did not 50% of the time that would mean i could win half my games. that is much better than how i was doing before
Congratulation for your win! Look, you really should not play moves only based on the hope that the opponent will not see the threat. Check this game here to see what I mean with this:
https://www.chess.com/forum/view/general/how-to-post-a-game-the-simple-way?page=1#last_comment
I think i know what you mean torrub. here is a good example where i show some restraint. I use the Kings gambit declined as white, witch i heard was good. I try and force a draw in the end and lost, but i think this illustrates you point.
Here is another game where i obviously command a graet opening. I learned that morphey was a great player... so i think i want to start playing more like him. I this game i use the kings pawn opening. It looked like is was going to be a draw, so im not too sure if i lost 100%, but i did quit because he may have won in a few moves.
Pawn moves like a3 and h3 are only played with a good reason, otherwise you are losing time. If you want to castle kingside, h3 is weakening the kingside, which can be explored by your opponent. In the five first moves you did 4 pawn moves! Follow opening principles: one pawn in the center, perhaps two, and develop your pieces.