It really depends on how invested you are in chess. If you want to or feel you need it go ahead! If not, it is not necessary, but could help.
Pawn Structures
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14 hrs ago
0
#3
Looking at your games. You need to work on the basics. Opening principles. Not blundering matetial
14 hrs ago
0
#4
Thank you both. I've started studying about two to four hours a day depending on the day. So I feel that I'm getting very vested in the game. LieutenantFrankColumbo, thank you for taking the time to look over my games.
There are a couple of books on pawn structures that are aimed at very strong players. Soltis has a book called Pawn Structure Chess that is accessible to average players.
at your level, you don’t have to study how pawn structures affect middlegame play and preparation for the endgame. However, you should learn that doubled, isolated, and backward pawns are weak and that passed pawns, protected passed pawns, and outside passed pawns are strong.
13 hrs ago
0
#8
Thank you Mikewier. Thank you also to fraserhm and LieutenantFrankColumbo for offering your time to help me. I appreciate that a lot!
I"m going to hunker down for now and focus on the mistakes I'm making for now and worry
about pawn structure later. I will, however, look at the types of pawns created in the game
and work on that for now. Thank you all again!
13 hrs ago
0
#9
Cooksrule. For now the best advice I can give you is this: Opening principles. Blunder check your moves. Before you move ask yourself "Are my pieces safe?". After your opponents move ask yourself "What is my opponent trying to do?"
cooksrule wrote:
Hi all. I was thinking about pawn structures the other day and I thought I might get a book on it. I feel that at my current rating that my time for study would be more beneficial to me elsewhere. So, my question is: What would be a rating of a player that should start to study pawn structure.
A great book I'm in is Chess Structures by Rios. It's a bit difficult (for me) but, just like in playing, when I slow down and analyze as I go, it provides a pawn-eye-view of the board. Look up Isolani.
Don't study pawn structures deeply at your level, and definitely don't buy a book about it! It's completely useless till ~1200. I will provide you the basics of pawn sructures:
Doubled pawns:
Doubled pawns is 2 pawns of the same color on the same file. This is a weakness, because they cannot protect each other.
Isolated pawn:
An isolated pawn is a pawn that is surrounded by no pawns of the same color in adjacent files. This is a weakness because pawns cannot protect it but pieces will need to protect it.
Backward pawn:
A backward pawn that is surrounded by no pawns of the same color on the same row or behind the same row on adjacent files. This is a weakness because of the same reason as the isolated pawn, but it can be fixed easier.
Hanging pawns:
Hanging pawns are two pawns next to each other, generally the c and the d pawn, but if one of them moves forward, the other pawn will be a backward pawn, because they are surrounded by no pawns of the same color in adjacent files (but they are not isolated pawns as they are next to each other). This can be a weakness OR a strength, because they are harder to protect than other pawns, but they also give room for better activity.
Tripled pawns:
Tripled pawns is 3 pawns of the same color on the same file. Tripled pawns is a very rare phenomenon, and they are even harder to protect than doubled pawns.
Isolated queen's (d) pawn:
An isolated queen's pawn is a common pawn structure in some openings. It's not different from any isolated pawn, but when you have an isolated queen's pawn, you should play actively, and you should not trade your pieces, because in the endgame, it is a weakness, but in the middlegame, it can be a strength, because if the queen's pawn is isolated, that means that the c or the e file is open (or at least semi open), which you can use to your advantage.
Doubled pawns:
Doubled pawns is 2 pawns of the same color on the same file. This is a weakness, because they cannot protect each other.
Isolated pawn:
An isolated pawn is a pawn that is surrounded by no pawns of the same color in adjacent files. This is a weakness because pawns cannot protect it but pieces will need to protect it.
Backward pawn:
A backward pawn that is surrounded by no pawns of the same color on the same row or behind the same row on adjacent files. This is a weakness because of the same reason as the isolated pawn, but it can be fixed easier.
Hanging pawns:
Hanging pawns are two pawns next to each other, generally the c and the d pawn, but if one of them moves forward, the other pawn will be a backward pawn, because they are surrounded by no pawns of the same color in adjacent files (but they are not isolated pawns as they are next to each other). This can be a weakness OR a strength, because they are harder to protect than other pawns, but they also give room for better activity.
Tripled pawns:
Tripled pawns is 3 pawns of the same color on the same file. Tripled pawns is a very rare phenomenon, and they are even harder to protect than doubled pawns.
Isolated queen's (d) pawn:
An isolated queen's pawn is a common pawn structure in some openings. It's not different from any isolated pawn, but when you have an isolated queen's pawn, you should play actively, and you should not trade your pieces, because in the endgame, it is a weakness, but in the middlegame, it can be a strength, because if the queen's pawn is isolated, that means that the c or the e file is open (or at least semi open), which you can use to your advantage.
LieutenantFrankColumbo wrote:
I'm available for an Unrated Daily game.
It says you only accept Challenges from players greater than 1600+
11 hrs ago
0
#13
DavidWills99 - Thank you for the suggestion. I imagine if it is difficult for you, than it will that much more for me. I will revisit that book at I progress.
It also makes a lot of sense to me.
DavidWills99 - Thanks for the observation. I will have to look at that. I didn't think the ratings of those I play are much more than me. I will take heed and make sure the ratings are within a hundred points or so of my rating.
cooksrule wrote:
DavidWills99 - Thank you for the suggestion. I imagine if it is difficult for you, than it will that much more for me. I will revisit that book at I progress.
It also makes a lot of sense to me.
DavidWills99 - Thanks for the observation. I will have to look at that. I didn't think the ratings of those I play are much more than me. I will take heed and make sure the ratings are within a hundred points or so of my rating.
On Rating range, you can restrict it in Settings > Gameplay > at the bottom on 'moves'.
CORRECTION: Restricting range is under Challenges below that.
ADDED: To be fair, I'm not following my own advice at the moment. I'm currently addicted to getting the sh*t stomped out of me by greater players. My Ratings show the results. I don't care either! But the advice I gave is (usually) RIGHT for NORMAL people. I'm not. And I AM learning far more than it shows (it's an internal thing). :-)
Hi all. I was thinking about pawn structures the other day and I thought I might get a book on it. I feel that at my current rating that my time for study would be more beneficial to me elsewhere. So, my question is: What would be a rating of a player that should start to study pawn structure.