The only flaw I've found in the 2500 is the inconsistency of the "base" magnet strength, as well as the quite substantial change in strength when a magnet is left fully closed on one side for some time (attract strength slowly increases when fully latched onto iron/steel, meaning release tension is much stronger, then very slowly drops back at release to original strength). This may be a 'feature' of rare earth magnets, but I haven't seen the lighter magnets in the 2010, NA, that other cheap lever DGT clock sometimes used by chess clubs, or the premier 3000 do anything like this.
I’ve searched online and can’t find much of anything touching on the magnet sensitivity like what you have. I got mine in yesterday evening and the right side of the lever was obnoxiously stronger than the left and the left side wouldn’t even seat all the way down flush with the edges of the clock without having to really push quite firmly, so i imagine this specific unit actually had some small QC issue, so I ordered a replacement through Amazon straight away that should be here Friday. That being said idk how optimistic i should be.
Can you elaborate on your experience with the magnets getting stronger and dropping back down, i am left somewhat confused by your wording.
Has this improved?
are you having to be conscious of which side lever have down when storing to compensate for the magnet charge?
also you said the magnet gets stronger when left all the way down, are you saying you try to leave it in a somewhat neutral position when not in use?
does the increased magnet charge wear off very easily or are you just having to build up the charge of whatever side is weaker constantly?
Sorry for so many questions, i just was really excited to receive this clock and while it does appear to be a much nicer clock than my leap the tactile feel of mine right ootb has left me very disappointed compared to my ~$25 leap. I’m hoping i get better luck with the QC lottery on the replacement clock, and that you have some encouraging answers that will give me hope that I’ll actually come to liking this clock more than my cheap leap clock.
To answer your questions.
Rare earth magnets (afaik) tend to get a stronger charge temporarily when attached to iron/steel. When left idle, it reverts to normal slowly. This does not give any sort of advantage to anyone in any game.
If your clock has balanced strength magnets, leaving the lever in the neutral position will indeed allow both sides to have identical tension strength! If you are unlucky enough to get a clock that does not have identical tension when the lever is left neutral for a day, it means the magnets are of unequal strength and you should replace/RMA the clock.
The 2500 allows neutral position easily. I tested DGT Easy and DGT 3000, they don't seem to allow neutral lever (Maybe I did not spend enough time with the 3000, but it's 100% impossible on the DGT Easy/DGT 2010).
2500 has a very nice feature. It actually has calibration for 'Lever left, lever right, and lever neutral'. This makes activation a LOT more consistent than Leap/Wholesalechess/PS-1688 versions, which all change from right/left at the exact same point in the movement, which can be DIFFERENT on each clock, even on the exact same models, and can cause "double/wrong activations" (which can mess up the move counter). I had two PS-1688 clocks (under the Xflyee brand), that I ordered at the same time on Amazon. Both were defective in the same way--the electrical activation of the left side would happen at 95% deflection of the right side being down! Sometimes when not pressing the clock quickly, it would "Double switch" right/left/right when trying to activate the right player's clock. Very bad calibration. I tested another person's PS-1688 at a tournament but his was right in the center as it should be. Some pretty abysmal QA going on with those.
You can test the neutral position. There are two test modes on the DGT 2500: The first is holding down left arrow when pressing power on. The second is holding down right arrow when testing power on. Both of them can be used to test the different lever positions. One of the test modes will have the number change as soon as the lever passes dead middle. Two of them will show L (left), L (right) and -- (middle) positions. The fact that left and right are separated by neutral will prevent any accidental activation during travel, since going from activated to neutral to same side reactivated during play will not do anything (VERY nice design).
Note: Turning on the clock when the lever is neutral will have the double long bar around the digits not appearing around whose clock will start first, until one side is actually activated. Trying to start the game in this state will not start the timers until a side is pressed down.
Thanks soo much. This gives me much more confidence in my purchase. I can’t wait for the replacement to arrive now!!
The only flaw I've found in the 2500 is the inconsistency of the "base" magnet strength, as well as the quite substantial change in strength when a magnet is left fully closed on one side for some time (attract strength slowly increases when fully latched onto iron/steel, meaning release tension is much stronger, then very slowly drops back at release to original strength). This may be a 'feature' of rare earth magnets, but I haven't seen the lighter magnets in the 2010, NA, that other cheap lever DGT clock sometimes used by chess clubs, or the premier 3000 do anything like this.
I’ve searched online and can’t find much of anything touching on the magnet sensitivity like what you have. I got mine in yesterday evening and the right side of the lever was obnoxiously stronger than the left and the left side wouldn’t even seat all the way down flush with the edges of the clock without having to really push quite firmly, so i imagine this specific unit actually had some small QC issue, so I ordered a replacement through Amazon straight away that should be here Friday. That being said idk how optimistic i should be.
Can you elaborate on your experience with the magnets getting stronger and dropping back down, i am left somewhat confused by your wording.
Has this improved?
are you having to be conscious of which side lever have down when storing to compensate for the magnet charge?
also you said the magnet gets stronger when left all the way down, are you saying you try to leave it in a somewhat neutral position when not in use?
does the increased magnet charge wear off very easily or are you just having to build up the charge of whatever side is weaker constantly?
Sorry for so many questions, i just was really excited to receive this clock and while it does appear to be a much nicer clock than my leap the tactile feel of mine right ootb has left me very disappointed compared to my ~$25 leap. I’m hoping i get better luck with the QC lottery on the replacement clock, and that you have some encouraging answers that will give me hope that I’ll actually come to liking this clock more than my cheap leap clock.
To answer your questions.
Rare earth magnets (afaik) tend to get a stronger charge temporarily when attached to iron/steel. When left idle, it reverts to normal slowly. This does not give any sort of advantage to anyone in any game.
If your clock has balanced strength magnets, leaving the lever in the neutral position will indeed allow both sides to have identical tension strength! If you are unlucky enough to get a clock that does not have identical tension when the lever is left neutral for a day, it means the magnets are of unequal strength and you should replace/RMA the clock.
The 2500 allows neutral position easily. I tested DGT Easy and DGT 3000, they don't seem to allow neutral lever (Maybe I did not spend enough time with the 3000, but it's 100% impossible on the DGT Easy/DGT 2010).
2500 has a very nice feature. It actually has calibration for 'Lever left, lever right, and lever neutral'. This makes activation a LOT more consistent than Leap/Wholesalechess/PS-1688 versions, which all change from right/left at the exact same point in the movement, which can be DIFFERENT on each clock, even on the exact same models, and can cause "double/wrong activations" (which can mess up the move counter). I had two PS-1688 clocks (under the Xflyee brand), that I ordered at the same time on Amazon. Both were defective in the same way--the electrical activation of the left side would happen at 95% deflection of the right side being down! Sometimes when not pressing the clock quickly, it would "Double switch" right/left/right when trying to activate the right player's clock. Very bad calibration. I tested another person's PS-1688 at a tournament but his was right in the center as it should be. Some pretty abysmal QA going on with those.
You can test the neutral position. There are two test modes on the DGT 2500: The first is holding down left arrow when pressing power on. The second is holding down right arrow when testing power on. Both of them can be used to test the different lever positions. One of the test modes will have the number change as soon as the lever passes dead middle. Two of them will show L (left), L (right) and -- (middle) positions. The fact that left and right are separated by neutral will prevent any accidental activation during travel, since going from activated to neutral to same side reactivated during play will not do anything
(VERY nice design).
Note: Turning on the clock when the lever is neutral will have the double long bar around the digits not appearing around whose clock will start first, until one side is actually activated. Trying to start the game in this state will not start the timers until a side is pressed down.