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[StartFen4 "R-0,0,0,0-0,0,1,1-0,0,1,1-0,0,0,0-3-x,x,x,yR,2,yK,1,yB,1,yR,x,x,x/x,x,x,yP,yP,yP,1,yP,yP,yP,yP,x,x,x/x,x,x,yN,2,yP,1,yN,2,x,x,x/bR,1,bK,bP,8,gP,gR/bN,bP,10,gP,1/rQ,11,gP,1/2,bQ,gB,7,gP,gN,gK/1,bP,10,gP,1/bB,bN,10,gP,1/1,bP,9,gP,gQ,1/bR,11,gP,gR/x,x,x,2,rP,1,rP,2,rP,x,x,x/x,x,x,rP,1,rP,rP,yB,rP,gN,1,x,x,x/x,x,x,rR,1,rB,rK,2,rN,rR,x,x,x"][Variant "Teams"][RuleVariants "EnPassant SelfPartner"][CurrentMove "0"][TimeControl "10 | 15"] From game #86159721

This isn't complaining asking for change. This is just a bit of a whinge.I've been a mid 1900 [RD 62] 4p modern for a few months, I got into a game with ~2400, 4000+ games to my left and right, my opposite was a 1400, like an idiot I didn't check ratings.[great match making... I abandon with this kind of mismatch, lose a point or two or get 3rd and lose more]So I play my opening and 6 moves later after opposite has been mated or resigned, after pushing a lot of pieces forwards so left & right have plenty of dead pieces to take and promote with rook/knight pawn.I played like a demon, obviously the higher ranked players want to pick points off me, but they also wanted to give me space to pick off their real opponent. I played super tight defensively, but I also throw sacrifices that cause left and right to fight each other.Against the odds, 50 sweaty moves later, I win. I beat, by average 3 * 2060 players, +~20 elo is my prize... great..., I didn't beat 3 near peers, I won flanked by 2 players +500 elo compared to me that had a 1400 across donating points and easy promotions to them for 6 moves.I'll try find the game in my arc. But has reward ever been different? because average doesn't feel right.glicko is kind of complicated so if 1900 wins against 2400 & 2400 & 1400 is the same as 1900 wins against 3*2060, then I'll shut up, I'll actually shut up anyway. I just want to know has there ever been something different tried?

Is there a maintenance going on or what? Since this early morning, I can't connect...

https://www.chess.com/variants/4-player-rg/game/80199452/22/1 This is the shortest game I think was ever played, it only lasted for 7 moves... also, im 2260 elo now and way better than I was beforeI resigned because there was no point of playing, I would get second place even if I checkmate him

Recently I have been noticing a lack of understanding of how the 3 player stage should be played out, assuming you are playing to win, so I have decided to break it down for you guys. Comprehending how to read the board and the players will increase your chances of winning dramatically. For this you need to grasp the do’s and don’ts while playing against the two remaining opponents. Here are the key factors to consider : -Unnecessary chivalry-Points-Which player to attack?-Checkmates In the end I will also give a bonus tip that might help you get the upper hand in your games. So without further ado let us get started in our analysis. Disclaimer : I blurred out the names of the players used in the pictures to avoid advertising and/or offending individuals. No offense is ever meant by any means. All of the following pictures have been used for analysis purposes only. 1. Unnecessary chivalry After eliminating a player there is sometimes an interesting yet annoying event that occurs. The players who have eliminated a side player by teaming up suddenly turn their arrows to the other side player and decide to do the same to him. You already sense how unfair that is toward that player. In this scenario both players think that the other player will split points and share first place. But the fact is you don’t know what your opposite will do. He might share, he might troll you and take the win only for himself and you will look like a total fool left with nothing but frustrations. As a good player you don’t want to leave your chances to another player’s hand, so I encourage you to thoroughly consider that thought when you are playing next time. Playing for second place is not why you should play. Embrace the winner’s mentality and always play for first no matter what. There is always a possibility that you might win, even though if you are left with only a single pawn or even no pawn. You could try to stalemate yourself and win by default. But this all begins by not trusting your opposite to full extend. After all he also plays to win and he will use every opportunity presented in order to get that juicy first place. Your job is to prevent that from happening, not religiously support him in his cause as some do unknowingly by for instance not attacking due to a presumed idea of trust. When they lose, then, they start shouting TRAITOR TRAITOR, but the fact is there is no treason in FFA because every player plays for his own account, as should you (read : https://www.chess.com/clubs/forum/view/theres-no-such-thing-as-treason). No one promised you in the beginning of the game that you will get full support of the opposite player. You cannot expect him to present you the win on a golden plate so get smart and start playing for first place. 2. Points This part of the game is tricky. For you to win the game you need to have the highest points of all players, obviously. Using advantage of checks, exchanging pieces (although not recommended), double checks and teaming up are all good moves for you to gain points. But why is this so important? Well, in the first place collecting plenty of points protects you from ending up last and incidently losing ELO points. Secondly, if you manage to steal enough points to the point where you no longer need to be participating in the game, it will automatically make you the champion of that game. There are two extremes in this spectrum that could happen. Let’s analyse both. When you are up to '50-70'+ points and you have pieces left with values ranging from one to nine you might consider resigning. This sounds counter intuitive when you read it for the first time. When you think about it though your pieces have value and with this also goes a danger that they might be captured. Resigning, however, overrules this option as your pieces turn grey so other players cannot benefit anymore from you, except for your king. To clarify this I will explain it with an example : Yellow has 70 points and is already checkmated. Red and blue have 29 and 31 points respectively. The maximum points red can get is 38 (1 king=20 points, 2 rooks=10 points, 1 bishop=5 points and 3 pawns=3points). Add his current points to that and it gets a total of 67 points, meaning he cannot win the game. Same rule applies for blue. He can get a total of 23 points from red (1king and 3 pawns) adding up to 54 points, also meaning he cannot win. So yellow has won the game without even actively participating in the endgame due to his earlier point collection. Hence it is important to loot as many points as possible. In the worst scenario you end up with 1-2 points after a player is eliminated. Then you have to find a way to up your points to rule out the possibility of getting forth. You can do this by crazily exchanging pieces, yes. But this again is a loser mentality and is not always the rational decision. Amateurs (or noobs as popularly referred to) panic under this stress and start suiciding on whichever piece they can lay hands on. More calm and collected players (the professionals of this game) tend to remain cool and play for first place using advantage of checks and threats until a balance is maintained in the scale of points. 3. Which player to attack? The most crucial part of the game that you must understand fully to win the game is to know who to attack and when to attack. Having this insight immediately determines whether you are going to win or make a fool of yourself. It is honestly the one thing that will decide your success or failure. So after the first player is checkmated the main line is that there is one player who is strong in material, one player who has the most points and the opposite of the checkmated player who has few points but perhaps sufficient material. Guys, the golden rule here is to keep the balance straight between all players, but of course a bit more in your advantage so you can win the game😉. This means that when there is a player who is enjoying all his pieces and is even on his way to make few more queens, you should immediately attack that player along with the other player. Let me tell you why this is important. Say there is this player with 3 extra queens plus his own pieces all alive and you decide to attack the weaker player, which is convenient right? Because you actually can attack him. Well no, this is the worst thing you could possibly do. The reason why is because once you finish the weaker player off, and as you do you will lose pieces yourself too, the stronger player will be able to kill you off easily since you have already wasted your pieces on the weaker player. Therefore it is not advised to eliminate a weaker player right away. You have to maximize your utility from every piece and every player, including other player’s pieces. Think like this : as long as the weaker player is alive he can use those pieces to attack the stronger player. He might capture or exchange pieces with the stronger player which will make it partially easier for you in the 1vs1 stage. Killing off the weaker player cancels this possibility and you end up fighting with perhaps one rook left against 3 hungry queens. Here is an example of such a game. As you can see green repeatedly harasses yellow while totally neglecting blue ending up in a position where he has to make tremendous sacrifices in order to stop being checkmated with the aid of yellow bishop. As green attacked the weaker player (yellow), blue took every advantage to increase his chances of winning. This could have been avoided if green had addressed the problem earlier by stopping blue from queening and thus keeping the balance in the game. Instead he ruined it for both himself and yellow resulting in an easy win for blue. We could clearly see that green didn’t know WHO to attack and also WHEN to attack. So our takeaway here is to properly read the board and advance in such a pattern that is beneficial for you, meaning don’t be a d*ck and have some common sense. Keep an eye on the balance. 4. Checkmates Just as you need to know who and when to attack you also need to know whether it’s worth to checkmate a player or keep him alive. The benefits of checkmating a player earns you 20 points. The benefits of keeping a player alive, is a lot more. First of all a player who is not checkmated has valuable pieces that could raise your points in the game and, as discussed earlier, might make a difference between first place or second. Furthermore the very same pieces will be used in attacking the third player, weakening his game and therefore making your hand stronger. So before mating a player, try to maximize your utility from all his pieces (capitalism be like). Also the one thing that you must never do is attack a weak player while you are down in points and the third player has the follow up move. To properly comprehend my statement, let us look at this perfect exhibit : Yellow decides to attack, for some reason, the already weakened player blue. Now if you carefully look at the points you can see that yellow has one point, green has 33 points (and blue has 5 points but is irrelevant). What makes this even worse is that after yellow green is to move, meaning he can steal the mate as it indeed happened. What yellow did was absolutely wrong in many ways. You have to understand that when a player is leading in points, you cannot allow him to gain any more points and you should definitely not assist him with a mate. You have to stop him by seriously weakening him. This is the only way from preventing him to guarantee his first place. How do you do that? By, first of all, leaving the weak player alone. By harassing him with threats on his king and pieces. By, if you find it necessary, protecting the weak player temporarily. Meanwhile the weak player will have time to reposition and maybe even queen creating thus a BALANCE in the game. To give you an idea, this is how approximately a well balanced game looks like : Bonus As I promised in the beginning of this article I will give away an element that I quite often use in my games to increase my chances of winning. Now this isn’t something that will magically make you win all your games but it would certainly not hurt to know. The aspect I’m talking about is the psychological, or better, the emotional state of the players that I use into my advantage. Some players let themselves drag by their emotions making impulsive moves. This could happen for any reason. He might find you annoying in person or he might be frustrated because you caused him too much damage in the earlier stages or because you are playing for second (which is quite understandable to be attacked for). But in any case, being aware of this can help you win more easily. Be alert of their rage and frustrations and use that into your advantage and you will see how quickly you rise on the leaderboard. That’s all I have to say about this topic. Feel free to share your thoughts and insights so we can help everyone become the better version of himself regarding chess. Salut to all and have fun!

I must have played about 50 ish WTA games and I'm starting to get a pretty good feel about what it is a player is supposed to do in any given situation, so I'd like to share my input. So here it is, the very first Winner-take-all strategy guide! Disclaimer: these considerations take for granted that you are playing with good players who remain rational during the game. In reality people are often very emotionally driven and or simply miss the ball and do horrible blunders that cost them the game while bringing you down with them. Either way, the better the players you are playing with, the truer what I will write will be. PHASE 1: 4 players Same old idea as normal FFA: ATTACK!! team up with your opposite, eliminate one of your flank! In WTA though, you want to do this in a way that doesn't either: A: give all the points to you or your opposite This is simply because if you mate without capturing any material, and one player ends up with 20 points while the two others have 0 points, the player with 20 points will be in a bad spot. If he is aware of that, he might simply decline to join the mating attack and you will likely end up in a bad spot. B: involve a disproportionnate material investment from yourself or your opposite You want to avoid doing all the work, or letting your opposite doing all the work. Share the burden! Make sure the player who gets the mate invested some material in the attack or somehow got into a weakened position. Try to keep the game somewhat equal ( balanced between positional strenght and points) while coordinating an attack with your opposite on one of your flank players. C: leave both you and your opposite in a position where the 3rd player can crush you both Obviously... If you eliminate a player but both you and your opposite invested so much material that the other player can beat you both, well you lost. You don't want that. Also, it is often wise to coordinate material winning attacks with your opposite instead of mating attacks. Just score some points and cripple a flank. Dont necessarily finish him off and become the target... NB: sometimes when all the players have traded off most of their material , the game enters an endgame phase even though 4 players are still alive. You are in the '' endgame phase'' when kings start marching to the center of the board to support pawn pushes. when this is the case, the concept of opposite doesn't really matter anymore. In you ever enter a 4 player endgame, you may treat it as if you were in the 3 player phase. PHASE 2: 3 players This phase is all about mainting balance. There are generally 3 potential scenarios which all involve different strategies. Scenario A: A player is ahead on points and has a stronger position This one is easy: coordinate an attack with whoeverelse is behind on points at the time untill balance is restored. Then reevaluate. Wash, rince, repeat if necessary... Scenario B: the game is balanced If all 3 players are somewhat equal in points and positionally, then just build your position, dont be affraid to trade as long as your king remains safe. It doesn't really matter if you trade material since at any given time, if one player starts to become too strong, the 2 others will team up against him and balance will be restored. Material will need to be traded anyway if the game is ever going to transition into the heads up phase without anyone commiting a major blunder. Scenario C: a player is ahead onpoints while another is ahead positionally That one is tricky. This is where you seperate men from children. I'm not going to try to explain how to deal with this situation because the best strategies are position specific and it would take forever. Besides, I still get kind of lost at times. Make sure the player who is ahead positionally doesn't get so strong that he can overpower the 2 others, and also make sure the player ahead on points can't just resign and win. PHASE 2.1: Transitionning towards heads-up So during the 3 player phase alliances will come and go, material will be traded while players improve their positions. eventually a point will come when someone gets tricked into entering a line that makes one of the player's position strong enough to overpower the 2 other players. Let's call this the '' Tilting Point'' Now how to do this is unclear. There is game theory involved: most of the time a player ends up tilting. If no player goes on tilt, well you'll have to make one ' BEND!' as Hikaru would say... That is another of those moments where you get to seperate men from children; (which is why WTA is far superior to the previous rating system) the art of reaching a favorable tilting point is very subtle and there is no way I can explain how to achieve it because I simply don't know how to. I just noticed that there is such a thing as a tilting point and that you need to make it tilt your way somehow with some mind trick or some kind of deep zugzwang that the others didn't see coming. PHASE 3: Heads up Well this one is easy: this is where you simply reap the benefits of your good play, or have to accept the reality that you lost. Once in a while you will transition into a losing heads up in which you can still outplay your opponent. Consider the normal chess ratings of the players, and if transitionning into an objectively losing but complicated enough heads up against a weaker player is your best bet to win the game! I hope this helps! Please let me know what you think

remove the fake TOP players from the leaderboards. there are many players who inflate their elo playing only games with new players of 1500 elo. and those players are taking up space on the leaderboard. i show as an example the self-partnering leaderboard because there you can notice this more. the top 1 is an example of a player who only farms with new players.my solution is to remove all players with more than 75glicko from the leaderboard. the leaderboard should show the best players, not the farmers, maybe a player is working hard to get to the top and there are many places occupied by this kind of players.don't misunderstand, there is no inconvenience that those players only play against 1500players, if they have fun doing that, that's fine, they can keep doing it, I just say that they shouldn't appear in the leaderboard if they have a high glicko.

Pretty basic but I would imagine it will be relatively quick and brutal as a FFA.Any thoughts? Too simplistic or what?

Share your weirdest chess game. Mine this this https://www.chess.com/variants/4-player-chess/game/80580747/69/2  And also, pls dont call me noob, this was when I had 1800 elo, now I have 2269

Ararara account closed 2 months ago. Still taking up a leaderboard place in rapid FFA. Same with neo2020. SORT IT OUT!!! 

if you keep on if you keep on canceling the game, you may get banded

The idea here is that each piece is an "eggshell" extremely delicate, and to be handled only when absolutely necessary! Each time you move a piece, it forms a "crack," and if it cracks too many times, it's dead. I think in order for this to make sense, the king (or royal piece) would need to be excluded from the eggshell rule. It also might be a neat add-on to make each piece have a different durability. I.e. pawns are allowed 15 cracks, queens 10, and everything else 8.

Note that Shift-clicking on pieces actually shows how they move! Welcome to my class. I am going to be teaching you all about the fairy pieces. Shadowmoon_KE said that it was an update in 4PC, and I think he/she is right. I am going to teach you about the large pieces first, in alphabetical order. Then I am going to teach you about the pawns, I will be teaching about them in the Greek letter order. Each will have their own explanation and stats. It will be a fun class. But I can only show you the existing pieces. (Note: The easier way is to SHIFT-CLICK on pieces, which will show how each piece moves) (This forum is recommended if you are not playing a game with these fairy pieces, but if you are playing a game, I recommend SHIFT-CLICKING on them.) Figure 1: Shift-clicking really shows how these pieces move. Thank you, and be great students! ChimpReturns Note: this forum uses the NEO style pieces. Starting from the Latin-uppercase-letter-notated pieces, It's easy as A-B-C... A is for AMAZON You may think the QUEEN is the most powerful, but guess what? The AMAZON is the most powerful in these fairy pieces. It can zoom Up, Down, to the Sides and Diagonally! It can also make knight moves - L SHAPED movements (2 forward, 1 to the side), and when it is used as a knight, it jumps over other pieces! It can't if it is used as a queen, though. It looks like a knight in a queen's crown - and it has a whopping exchange of 12! Direction*: N, S, E, W, NE, SE, SW, NW, NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: 1-13 for queen uses, 2-1 for knight uses Can jump over other pieces: Only on Knight uses Exchange Value: 12 points * Note: I used the compass points because, for me, they are pretty much the best way to describe a direction. The NORTH is at YELLOW's side, and SOUTH at RED's side. C is for CAMEL You can tell it's a CAMEL because... it looks like a Camel. It moves 3 squares forward and 1 to the side. It can jump over other pieces. 3 points of exchange. Direction: NNNE, NENE, SESE, SSSE, SSSW, SWSW, NWNW, NNNW, ENNE, EENE, EESE, ESSE, WSSW, WWSW, WWNW, WNNW Range: 3 squares forwards, one to the side (4 total) Can jump over other pieces: Yes Exchange Value: 3 points Fact: These stay on the same square colour! Note: Many people think that I am wrong with D as a 1-point-queen because it is actually represented by a Q. This is when something gets confusing. If you do not believe me, then you'll see why I used a D. Figure 2: D or Q for 1-Point Queen? Figure 3: Custom promotion: D Figure 4: Move notation: Q Well, at least I think D stands for DAME, so it does not get TOO confusing... yet. If you still don't believe me, then D will be vacant. Problem solved. E is for CHANCELLOR This Chancellor is highly dangerous. It moves rookways*, moves like a knight, and jumps on knight uses. 7 points worth of exchange. It is notated "E" because its former name was "Elephant". Direction: N, S, E, W, NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: 1-13 on rook uses, 2-1 on knight uses Can jump over other pieces: Only on knight uses Exchange Value: 7 points *ROOKWAYS is a word I invented myself. It means "In the direction of the rook." Another word for this is orthogonally. F is for FERZ This piece is no good. It only moves one square diagonally - no wonder why it is worth just a single point of exchange... Direction: NE, SE, SW, NW Range: 1 Can jump over other pieces: No Exchange Value: 1 point Fact: These stay on the same square colour! G is for GRASSHOPPER Jumping over other pieces for this 3-point piece is compulsory. When a piece is behind another piece, one square orthogonally/rookways or one square diagonally, with the piece I am talking about in the line of the pin/skewer, and there is no piece in between, then it is attacked. Direction: N, S, E, W, NE, SE, SW, NW Range: 2-14 Can jump over other pieces: Always Exchange Value: 3 points H is for ARCHBISHOP The Archbishop is a knight and bishop combined. Be careful when that 7-points-of-exchange piece is on the board. It is notated "H" because its former name was "Hawk". Direction: NE, SE, SW, NW, NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: 1-10 on bishop uses, 2-1 on knight uses Can jump over other pieces: Only on knight uses Exchange Value: 7 points I is for ALFIL I know that the piece's name does not begin with an I, but that is what they put in for the notation. Anyway, it jumps two squares diagonally. Just 1 point, like the Ferz. Direction: NE, SE, SW, NW Range: 2 Can jump over other pieces: Yes Exchange Value: 1 point Fact: These stay on the same square colour! J is for ALFIL-RIDER Repeated Alfil moves. 3 points. Direction: NE, SE, SW, NW Range: 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 Can jump over other pieces: Yes, but not over the squares it lands on. Once there is a piece in a square attacked by the ALFIL-RIDER, the way is blocked. The ALFIL-RIDER cannot move further. Exchange Value: 3 points Fact: These stay on the same square colour! Note: Once the royal piece is captured, or in checkmate, that is it. You are out of the game. Note: The king is not royal in ANTICHESS and the variants with a Custom Royal Piece. L is for CAMEL-RIDER It has repeated camel moves and is worth 7 points of exchange Direction: NNNE, NENE, SESE, SSSE, SSSW, SWSW, NWNW, NNNW, ENNE, EENE, EESE, ESSE, WSSW, WWSW, WWNW, WNNW Range: Repeated 3-1 moves Can jump over other pieces: Yes, but not over the squares it lands on. Once there is a piece in a square attacked by the CAMEL-RIDER, the way is blocked. The CAMEL-RIDER cannot move further. Exchange Value: 7 points Fact: These stay on the same square colour! M is for GENERAL A combined King-Knight (5 points) Direction: N, S, E, W, NE, SE, SW, NW, NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: 1 for king uses, 2-1 for knight uses Can jump over other pieces: Only on knight uses Exchange Value: 5 points O is for KNIGHT-RIDER This is a strong 7-point piece. It moves very far on those 2-1 moves, as far as it likes, as long as the squares it attacks do not have any other pieces. EEEEERP! CRASH! Like the Camel Rider, when it could land on an enemy piece, the Knight Rider stops in a dead end of its line and you need to wait another turn to continue. It is blocked if it is a piece on its side. Direction: NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: Repeated 2-1 moves Can jump over other pieces: Yes, but not over the squares it lands on. Once there is a piece in a square attacked by the KNIGHT-RIDER, the way is blocked. The KNIGHT-RIDER cannot move further. Exchange Value: 7 points Actually, the pawn does not get represented by a letter, so P will be vacant. Note: The 1-Point Queen also occupies the Q in notation. The Q is only used in this piece on custom promotion. Unfortunately, the same letter is used to notate two different-point pieces. S is for DABBABA These 1-point pieces jump two squares rookways/orthogonally. But if one of its four directions has a friendly piece on its square that it will land on, it will not move in that direction. If one of its four directions has an enemy piece on it, it must capture it. It can jump over a piece that is next to it, as far as I'm concerned... Direction: N, S, E, W Range: 2 Can jump over other pieces: Yes Exchange Value: 1 point Fact: These stay on the same square colour! T is for DABBABA-RIDER Repeated Dabbaba moves. (4 points) Direction: N, S, E, W Range: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 Can jump over other pieces: Yes, but not over the squares it lands on. Once there is a piece in a square attacked by the DABBABA-RIDER, the way is blocked. The DABBABA-RIDER cannot move further. Exchange Value: 4 points Fact: These stay on the same square colour! U is for XIANGQI HORSE Okay, since the actual 4PC server is unavailable right now (but it will lead to the Variants site now), I thought it is time to show how the Xiangqi Horse will move: It moves like a knight but cannot jump over a wall or a piece one square orthogonally/rookways next to it. This is worth two points. Direction: NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: 3 Can jump over other pieces: Yes but not over a wall/piece that is one square orthogonally next to it Exchange Value: 2 points V is for WILDEBEEST Combining the CAMEL and the Knight will make an (almost) unstoppable 5-point piece... Direction: NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW, NNNE, NENE, SESE, SSSE, SSSW, SWSW, NWNW, NNNW, ENNE, EENE, EESE, ESSE, WSSW, WWSW, WWNW, WNNW Range: 2-1 for Knight uses, 3-1 for Camel uses Can jump over other pieces: Yes Exchange Value: 5 points W is for WAZIR These pieces are weak. They only move one square orthogonally, and would only give you 1 point if you wanted to capture it. Direction: N, S, E, W Range: 1 Can jump over other pieces: No Exchange Value: 1 point Fact: These change square colours every move. These walls don't move actually! Why did I put the wall in there? Should X be vacant? Well, on the FEN4, the notation is X... Y is for ALIBABA This 3-point piece is a Dabbaba and an Alfil combined together. Its name is a mix between Alfil and Dabbaba. Direction: N, S, E, W, NE, SE, SW, NW Range: 2 Can jump over other pieces: Yes Exchange Value: 3 points Fact: These stay on the same square colour! Z is for ALIBABA-RIDER This is the last Latin-capital-letter-notated piece in the collection. Next we will meet the Latin-lowercase-notated pieces. Anyway, this 6-points-of-exchange piece makes repeated Alibaba moves. Direction: N, S, E, W, NE, SE, SW, NW Range: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 (Diagonal range ends on 10), 12 Can jump over other pieces: Yes, but not over the squares it lands on. Once there is a piece in a square attacked by the ALIBABA-RIDER, the way is blocked. The ALIBABA-RIDER cannot move further. Exchange Value: 6 points Fact: These stay on the same square colour! And there is only one piece with a Latin Lowercase letter as its notation: The TRANSPARENT BRICK (x) (not necessary because it can't move) PIECES WITH GREEK NOTATIONS Those pieces we just looked at have Latin notations. The following pieces have Greek characters for their notations. Let's start with the UPPERCASE pieces: The DRAGON BISHOP (Δ) This is a combined Xiangqi Horse and Bishop. 7 points (5+2) of exchange. Direction: NE, SE, SW, NW, NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, NNW Range: 1-10 (diagonally), or 3 (by Xiangqi Horse) Can jump over other pieces: Yes but not over a wall/piece that is one square orthogonally next to it (on Xiangqi Horse uses); bishop uses can never jump over a piece Exchange Value: 7 points Our new piece: The DUCK (Θ) This was added to the 4PC because people seemed to have made their avatars the duck from The Duck Song. The duck has the same function as the brick, only a little cuter. Quack, quack! However, the duck being a motionless wall doesn't apply in games with the rules "Duck Chess". In Duck Chess, the duck can move to any empty square on the board. Ducks can never be captured. Everybody has to move the duck after they move. The duck is on j7 in this little edit of the Variant Castle on a Hill. The duck can move to anywhere marked by the yellow circles as soon as red moves. Direction: Any Range: 1-14 Can jump over other pieces: Yes Exchange Value: - Now for the lowercase-lettered Greek notations. THE PAWNS Now it is time to meet the pawns. They always go forward or on the forward diagonal squares and move one square at a time. On the start, it can move two, it can only capture on one square and all 5 types are worth 1 point. Pawns get promoted at a certain rank (for RED and YELLOW sides) and a certain file (for BLUE and GREEN sides). I can only show you the existing fairy pawns. I'll give you a clue: If you used the Standard, Classic or Alpha designs, their heads tell which way they would go... The Berolina (α Alpha) AKA the REVERSED pawn (former head is upside down), because it moves on the forward diagonals and attacks forward. If there are pieces on its forward diagonals and none on its forward square, the poor Berolina can't move past! The Soldier (β Beta) AKA the FORWARD pawn (former head points to top), because it can move and capture on the forward squares only. The warm-coloured sides' soldiers stay on the same file while the cool-coloured sides' soldiers stay on the same rank. Those two happen until they get promoted. Fact: These usually change square colours every move. The Stone General (γ Gamma) AKA the DIAGONAL pawn (former head divides in two and point to top diagonals), because it can move and capture on the forward diagonal squares only. Fact: These stay on the same square colour! NOTE: BE CAREFUL NOT TO CONFUSE THIS WITH THE GENERAL, WHICH HAS A TIP AT THE TOP OF ITS HEAD, AND A LINE AT THE BASE LIKE THE OTHER LARGE PIECES!!! AND DON'T CONFUSE THIS WITH THE SOLDIER, WHICH HAS A "RUFF" BELOW ITS HEAD!!! The Sergeant (δ Delta) AKA the SUPER pawn (former head divides to three, big one points to top and the other two point in forward diagonals), because it can move and capture on the forward AND forward diagonal squares. Those are all the pieces and pawns that I need to teach. So, you are ALL great students! Well done! Remember what their notations are and their moves! NOTE: You can re-read this forum as many times as you like, but the best way to REALLY know these fairy pieces is not by re-reading this forum. The best way is to PRACTISE with these pieces. NOTE: To not confuse any of you, I'll put all the pieces in their styles. Here is where each piece is going... FIGURE 5 FIGURE 6: Left to right: Neo, Standard, Classic, Alpha. Thank you, ChimpReturns

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Antichess is the best way to relax on a good day, as there is almost no need to calculate while Intuitive moves win you the game.  Today I stumbled upon a cute promotion to win the game on the spot. No need to post the post the answers too, just solve it and have a Good Day ahead. Red to Promote and Win

I lost >100 rating points because of noobs (just today). how do I complain to the admins

Its a team mode , first to checkmate an opposing king wins. ELO ranking is not on at the moment. https://www.chess.com/club/chessfinity-1 - for more details.Its played off of chess dot com and on a game I am making on steam.https://store.steampowered.com/app/3268290/ChessFinity/Let me know if you are interested and what needs tweaking.

I want to create a new account and I want to avoid misunderstanding about double accounts ....